Draped Jackets

A frock coat is a man's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt (often cut just above the knee) all around the base, The morning coat was particularly popular amongst fashionable younger men, and the frock coat increasingly came to be worn mostly by older conservative gentlemen.

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Draped Jackets

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Notably, however, this time was before contemporary established dress code terminology, and so definitions of formal attire , as well as morning and evening attire, was not altogether according to later standards.

Around the s and increasingly through into the Edwardian era , an adaptation of the riding coat called a Newmarket coat, within shortly and ever since known as a morning coat , began to supplant the frock coat as daytime full dress. Once considered a casual equestrian sports coat, the morning coat started to slowly become both acceptable, and increasingly popular, as a standard day time town full dress alternative to the frock coat, a position which the morning coat enjoys to this day.

The morning coat was particularly popular amongst fashionable younger men, and the frock coat increasingly came to be worn mostly by older conservative gentlemen. The morning coat gradually relegated the frock coat to only more formal situations, to the point that the frock coat eventually came to be worn only as court and diplomatic dress. The lounge suit was once only worn as smart leisure wear in the country or at the seaside, but in the middle of the 19th century started to rise rapidly in popularity.

It took on the role of a more casual alternative to the morning coat for town wear, moving the latter up in the scale of formality. The more the morning coat became fashionable as correct daytime full dress, the more the lounge suit became acceptable as an informal alternative, and finally the more the frock coat became relegated to the status of ultra-formal day wear, worn only by older men.

At the most formal events during the signing of the Treaty of Versailles in , heads of government wore the frock coat, but at more informal meetings they wore morning coats or even a lounge suit. In , George V hastened the demise of the frock coat when he shocked the public by appearing at the opening of the Chelsea Flower Show wearing a morning coat. The frock coat barely survived the s only as an ultra-formal form of court dress, until being finally officially abolished in as official court dress by Edward VIII who later abdicated to become the Duke of Windsor.

It was replaced by the morning coat, thus protocol-wise consigning the frock coat to the status of historic dress at the British royal court.

Since that time it has been worn sparingly, albeit arguably not altogether vanished see section on contemporary use further below. Frock coats worn with waistcoat and formal striped trousers are still very occasionally worn as daytime formal wear , especially to weddings , as an alternative to morning coats , in order to give the wedding attire a Victorian flavour.

They are today usually only worn by the wedding party, where elements of historical costume are more acceptable, and even this practice is unusual, as its role as a formal ceremonial coat in daytime formal wear has been long supplanted in modern dress code by the morning coat. Prior to the stablishment of the morning dress around the turn of the century , the expression "morning dress" tended to refer to frock coat, while gradually extending to mean both the frock coat and the morning dress in the contemporary sense.

The morning dress for gentlemen is a black frock coat, or a black cut-away, white or black vest, according to the season, gray or colored pants, plaid or stripes according to the fashion, a high silk stove pipe hat, and a black scarf or necktie. A black frock coat with black pants is not considered a good combination.. The morning dress is suitable for garden parties, Sundays, social teas, informal calls, morning calls and receptions. At afternoon funerals, wear a frock coat and top hat.

Should the funeral be your own, the hat may be dispensed with. Standard fibres used for the frock coat included wool and vicuña. The most common weave was known as broadcloth. The standard colour of a frock coat was solid black, but later, in the Victorian era , charcoal grey became an acceptable but less common alternative and Midnight Blue was an even rarer alternative colour.

For business and festive occasions the revers was lined with black silk facings either satin or grosgrain. For funerals black frock coats without self-faced revers were worn with a matching black waistcoat.

On more formal outings the coat was worn with a pair of cashmere striped morning trousers: However, trousers of muted checks were also worn in slightly more informal situations.

In keeping with the rules set for morning dress , trousers matching the coat were considered a somewhat less formal alternative. A matching black waistcoat was worn for more formal business or more solemn ceremonies.

During the earlier Victorian period, colourful fancy waistcoats of silk were noted as being worn by gentlemen such as Charles Dickens. In summer a white or buff coloured linen waistcoat could be worn. For festive occasions a lighter coloured waistcoat such as light grey was permissible. The length of the skirt of the frock coat varied during the Victorian era and Edwardian era according to fashion.

The most conservative length became established as being to the knees but fashion conscious men would follow the latest trends to wear them either longer or shorter. During its heyday, the frock coat was cut following the 19th century ideal of flattering the natural elegance of the naked figure, based on the ideals of Neoclassicism that admired the depiction of the idealised nude in Classical Greco-Roman sculpture. The elegance of the form of the frock coat derived from its hourglass shape with a closely cut waist which at times around the s's was reinforced further with padding to round out the chest.

A cut with an ideal hourglass silhouette was achievable because coats during this era were all made bespoke , individually cut to the exact measurements of the customer.

The 19th century aesthetics of tailoring contrasted markedly to the modern style of cutting suits which involves a greater degree of drape fullness , as established by the great early 20th century Savile Row tailor Frederick Scholte. Sometimes, modern lounge suit coats with an unusually long skirt are referred to by ready-to-wear makers as a 'frock coat' but these lack the waist seam, resulting in the fuller drape more typical of a modern overcoat or a lounge suit jacket.

The silhouette of the historically accurate frock coat has the waist seam precisely tailored to permit the classical and elongating hourglass figure with the strong waist suppression. Another characteristic of frock coats was their lack of any outer pockets. Only late in the Victorian and Edwardian era were they ever made with a chest pocket to sport a pocket square , a feature more typical of the modern lounge suit. Oscar Wilde , a famous dandy of his time, was often seen in portraits wearing just such a model, but this was rather rare on frock coats; while in keeping with the flamboyant nature of Wilde's dress, it was frowned upon by traditionalists.

Side pockets were always absent from frock coats, but pockets were provided on the inside of the chest or inside the top part of the tail. The buttons on a frock coat were always covered in cloth, often to match the silk on the revers, showing in the triangle of lining wrapped over the inside of the lapels. Another common feature was the use of fancy buttons with a snow-flake or check pattern woven over it.

Through most of the Victorian era until towards the end, the lapels were cut separately and sewn on later, apparently because it made the lapel roll more elegantly from bottom up. The lapel revers from the inside of the coat wrapped over to the front, creating a small triangle of silk, while the outer half was cut from two strips of the body fabric.

This was a feature of double-breasted frock coats used on all such coats, but morning and dress coats, which had previously followed this practice, began to be made with attached lapels wholecut around the end of the Edwardian era. Through the Victorian era, a row of decorative button holes was created down the lapel edge, but by Edwardian period these were reduced down to just the one lapel boutonnière button hole.

Turn back cuffs on the sleeves, similar to the turn ups cuffs in American English on modern trouser hems, were standard, with two buttons on the cuff. Proper accessories to wear with the frock coat included a non-collapsible top hat and a boutonnière in the lapel. A Homburg hat was considered too informal to wear with proper formal morning dress. During the Victorian and Edwardian era, button boots with a single row of punching across the cap toe were worn along with a cane.

On cold days, it was common to wear a frock overcoat , a type of overcoat cut exactly the same as the frock coat, with the waist seam construction, only a little longer and fuller to permit it to be worn over the top of the frock coat. Patent leather dress boots were worn up until the Edwardian era with morning dress. The practice of wearing patent leather shoes is today reserved strictly for evening formalwear.

Trousers are uncuffed and worn with braces to avoid the top of the trousers from showing underneath the waistcoat. Only white shirts were worn with frock coats. The shirt was worn with a standing detachable collar with either wingtips or "imperial" style plain standing.

The most standard neckwear was a formal cravat. The cravat was tied in the Ascot knot characterised by way the ends cross over in front, or alternatively in a Ruche knot, tied like a four-in-hand knot of a modern necktie. A decorative cravat pin often adorned with a precious stone or pearl was used to keep the cravat tidy.

The cravat was usual with a frock coat when worn in more formal occasions through the Victorian and Edwardian eras, although the long necktie came to be worn increasingly after the turn of the century in the same manner as it is today with morning dress.

The practice of wearing bow ties as an acceptable alternative with formalwear fell away after the late Victorian to early Edwardian era and became relegated to eveningwear, as remains the case in the 21st century. As with a formal shirt for white tie, cuffs were single rather than double cuffed and made to close with cufflinks. The waistcoat was usually double-breasted with peaked lapels. Formal gloves in light grey suede , chamois , or kid leather were also required.

The solid black garment described above was widely used, but before the lounge suit became popular, there was a need for a more informal garment for smart casual wear. A version of the frock coat was used here too, with matching trousers and a more informal cloth, featuring stripes, or the check shown in the plate opposite. The waistcoat, instead of being black as usual in the formal version, was matching or odd. Until the modern cut away morning coat was worn, the single breasted frock coat was called a morning coat , and was used in such a less formal context, and double breasted coats made this way would often not fasten, being held loosely together in much the same way the modern morning coat is, with a single link.

The accessories for the two styles depended on the intended use of the coat: This last was accompanied by a business collar such as winged collar, not a standing Imperial collar ; a four in hand tie as opposed to the formal cravat and puff , and a soft Derby or Homburg. Although ceased as a protocol-regulated required formal attire at the British royal court in at the order of the short-reigning King Edward VIII , the frock coat - embodying the background for all contemporary civil formal wear - has not altogether vanished.

The state funeral of Winston Churchill in included bearers of frock coats. Some wedding grooms apply more or less creative civil or military variants of frock coats. In the civilian wear cases it is sometimes accompanied by the same creativity in terms of ascot ties.

As a prominent example, when Prince Harry married Meghan Markle in , he and his brother and best man Prince William opted for military variants of frock coats. Savile Row tailor and reinnovator Tommy Nutter — was a frequent wearer. As an example of more recent fashion, Prada 's autumn editions of heavily embraced frock coats. On a further note, frock coats, albeit often in other colours than black, survive until this day recurringly in uniforms of hotel staff. Likewise it has thourougly survived in women's wear, also there often in other colours than the traditional black or dark tones.

Click here for more information. Sorry for not sending this earlier, it's been a bit hectic still. Trousers were brilliant, and thank you for getting them to us quickly, safe and sound! Just wanted to say thanks SO much for organising the jacket and being so quick on the turnaround. My mate took me to London boot when i was looking for something to wear for a wedding Cheryl was brilliant sorted me out with the full ensemble.

London Boots a great place with friendly service I have had a few Drapes Drainpipes and shoes and been pleased with the results. The Wife and I decided to call down to London boots just to have a look around. What a lovely shop and lady we were made to feel very welcome and Cheryl made us a cup off coffee, which are rumoured to have something in them lol. Called into the shop today hoping to find some new creepers after my old ones that I've had 18 years finally gave up the ghost when the soles disintegrated.

Certainly wasn't disappointed, the lovely lady in the shop cheryl brought a beautiful pair of tuk leather creepers in oxblood to my attention. So of course I had to have them along with another pair in white which I've ordered.

Some wonderful items in the shop and I even got a cup of tea and met a lovely dog What more could anyone ask for? You've found a customer for life. Just to let you know I received the parcel yesterday everything is as near perfect as it could be, glad I took your advice on the jacket sleeve would have been a bit short at Now already for the party.

We had a great wedding and the suits were fabulous adding in no small part to the spectacle of the day Results 1 - 24 of 24 15 24 30 60 Thinking of joining a dance class? I'm sure I'll be calling on you again in the future. Thanks again Michael S. Hi Cheryl, Shoes arrived at lunchtime, fit like a glove.

Hi Cheryl Sorry for not sending this earlier, it's been a bit hectic still.

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