Ritzy New York department stores can be trusted to have the best quality pashmina. Shaoxing Bolisi Clothing Co.
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Machines can produce straighter lines, and fewer "mistakes. Also, as with carpets, the soulless machine-made version of the traditional pashmina shawl is considered inauthentic. Hand-loomed pashmina is superior to machine-loomed pashmina. Depends on the skill of the weaver. Weaving pashmina is a skill that takes some time to perfect.
Quality control is key. If a producer is just trying to increase output, the quality is going to reflect that. High-quality pashmina doesn't pill. Those little bugger-size balls are caused by abrasion rubbing. If you wear your pash under a heavy coat, you're probably going to get pill issues. The best quality pashmina is fluffy like a kitten.
Pashmina gets softer with use. Producers recognize that Westerners doen't understand this, so they use chemical softeners and some of them brush the pashmina to make it fluffy. Brushing weakens the fabric. The best quality pashmina at the best price is found in Kathmandu. You might find a good deal, but the competition among pash dealers is intense, and the result is a race to the bottom.
Most of the stuff is mediocre quality, adulterate, mislabeled, and overpriced. You really need to know the product, or at least know someone who does. Ritzy New York department stores can be trusted to have the best quality pashmina. They need quantity and consistency. The only way they can do that is with machine looms. So they get regular-looking fabric, but it's never the best. American import standards never enforced!
Chinese manufactures admit a similar rate of adulteration, and cheating is rampant. But you can see the stiff guard hairs and straw in some fabric.
A sewn-on tag is proof of pashmina quality. The following two statements are posted on the Web site of the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers' Institute at www. We are therefore issuing this clarifying statement:. Use of the term "Pashmina" in marketing is inherently ambiguous and therefore misleading.
Pashmina is a term which is derived from an Indian word used to describe cashmere in India and Nepal. Pashmina is not necessarily finer than other types of cashmere, nor does it have any distinguishing characteristics other than those normally associated with cashmere coming from China, Mongolia, Iran or Afganistan.
In its current usage, this is marketing terminology intended apparently to capitalize on a fad for shawls of a type traditionally associated with India and Nepal. The word pashmina itself is not a legally recognizable term for describing fiber content in European or American law. If a textile product contains cashmere, the fiber content must be designated "cashmere" on required labeling.
The term "pashmina" does not refer to cashmere and silk. Textile products composed of blends of cashmere and silk fibers must be labeled with the appropriate percentages of cashmere and silk and designated as such according to textile and Customs labeling regulations.
Because there is no consistently understood definition of the term "pashmina," CCMI regards the use of the term in signage or promotional literature for cashmere and silk blends, to be misleading. Pashmina is not a descriptive, generic term. CCMI considers the use of the term "pashmina" on required garment labels and in the absence of the appropriate designation "cashmere" to be in violation of labeling regulations and to be misleading to the consumer.
The Institute will take action against such mislabeling. CCMI has informed the United States Federal Trade Commission, the US Customs Service and corresponding authorities in the European Community of its position on the use of the term pashmina without proper fiber identification and has asked for appropriate enforcement of the labeling laws at retail and at ports of entry.
Karl Spilhaus cashccmi aol. The terms, "Pashmina" and "Cashmere" are synonymous for soft, fine, high-quality fiber. The ancient name of the precious shawls still made by hand in the Central Asian regions is called "Pashmina.
Pashmina is accepted as a marketing term but is not recognized as a fiber designation under the Wool Products Labeling Act of the Federal Trade Commission. The herders live in communion with their goats; although it is a difficult life for the herders and goats living in the frigid Mongolian winter months, the lives of the herders and animals are respected. The term, "Shatoosh" describes the fine hair from the Tibetan antelope or chiru, which is being slaughtered for this hair and is traded illegally under Chinese and international law.
It is illegal to import or trade Shatoosh in the United States. Retailers and testing laboratories worldwide are encouraged to contact their countries customs department should they come across shatoosh products.
More information about shahtoosh and chiru antelope. The following notes are drawn from an account of Kashmiri shawl production in Anamika Pathak's Pashmina. Our understanding is that methods are similar in Nepal. The primary source of wool is the domesticated goat Capra hircus. This wool is called pashm. The word shahtoosh derives from shah king and tus wool , and refers to the highest quality fabric, which was reserved only for royalty.
Although historically and perhaps currently other wild species are used as well, shahtoosh wool is derived primarily from the endangered Tibetan antelope Pantholops hodgsonii , more commonly known by the Tibetan name chiru.
It is illegal in most countries. The domesticated shawl goats have an outer coat composed of short and relatively brittel guard hairs, and a softer inner coat. The best quality fiber comes from the area under the neck and belly.
The goat is sheared once a year, at the beginning of the summer. A knife is used rather than scissors, because the scissors allow the inner and outer layers of fleece mix. A knife is used to remove the outer coat first, and then the inner fleece is combed toward the head and carefully cut off.
Despite the care and skill of shearers, there is always some outer hair mixed into the finer fleece, and this has to be removed by hand. The raw wool is sorted according to quality and fiber length. Individual hairs may be as long as 40 cm 16". The sorted fibers are washed with plain water to get rid of dust and plant matter. Soap is not used, as it makes the wool harsher. The cleaned wool is teased between two wooden combs to loosen and separate tangled fibers.
Prior to spinning, the cleaned wool is spread out and rubbed with a paste of pounded rice and water. Once dried and teased again, the toughened wool is ready for spinning into yarn. Two qualities of thread were spun. The warp thread, which is subject to more tension than the weft, is prepared with a greater number of twists. The weft thread is less intensively twisted, so that it retains a fluffier texture. The process outlined here is summarized from Pashmina by Anamika Pathak.
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